We arrived to Rio Dulce about 6:30 pm after about 6.5 - hours on a private shuttle and a very hot Fuente Del Norte public pullman. We had reservations at Rio Vista, located right under the big bridge. We checked into a nice room, a/c was an additional cost. Our third British friend hates a/c and opted to get her own room. We relaxed a bit then went downstairs to dinner. We could smell pot at the bar and in the kitchen. I've heard drug use and trafficking in Rio Dulce is prevalent. After seeing all of the million dollar yachts there,now I know how many of them were purchased. Because of the drug trafficking, Rio Dulce is considered very safe. They don't want to bring any unwanted attention to the town. We had a decent dinner at the hotel. The bar was full of 60-year old hippie ex-pats while bacjground music was 70's rock, The Rolling Stones and the Doors. I loved it! The Michalda, my new favorite beverage (beer & tomato juice) was good and my friends liked the margarita and rum drink. They ordered b'bque ribs and said they were good but they wanted a larger portion.
The next morning we took the public boat at 9:30 am to Livingston. The ride was beautiful and I really enjoyed getting cooled down on the water. It took about 2.5 hours. We floated past the Spanish fort, Bird Island and stopped for a break at the hot springs. When you stick your feet in the boiling water and see fish below, you wonder how they can surivive. Put your feet in further and you realize the water is only boiling on top.
We arrived at Livingston before noon and weren't sure where to stay. Of course we were bomboarded by the locals on the best place to lodge, but we found our own Hotel Rio Tropicales from the tourism office located right off the pier. We quickly discovered the public boats don't leave on Tuesdays, so we arranged to get a collectivo boat for 250q verses the normal 200q the next day. See Capt Roni. You get your passport stamped the night before departure. I believe the office closes at 6:30 pm. ish.
It was terribly hot and humid so we had lunch and good margaritas at a local restaurent on the main drag. Later two of us took a local taxi to the beach. He had a flat on the way, but it was close enough to walk the rest of the way on our own. The beach was about 20-minutes drive and pretty nice. We layed out (in the shade) near a restaurant which had beach loungers. I ordered another Michalda after the three margaritas I had for lunch! The water was warm so not terribly refreshing, but fairly clean.
For dinner we had the traditional Tapado "seafood stew" of coconut milk, plantains, and coriander at Buga Mama's. The wait staff were all in school to learn hospitality and tourism. The soup was flavorful, but I didn't care to have a whole fish and a whole crab that I had to pick apart to get any meat. The soup was cold by the time I de-boned the fish. I can't do crab when it is whole. I'm a bit particular on how my seafood is prepared. We opted not to go out for music but could hear it from a couple of places. The night was miserably hot without a/c and no breeze. I spent part of the night in the courtyards hammock until some ladies came home very late and were loud and drunk. It came a deluge during the night. I love rain!
By now things were starting to heat up between us (3)ladies. I acted as the mediator between the other two. I'm drinking a lot of cocktails by now and trying to learn the art of comprise. Three middle aged women traveling together is difficult to say the least. We all have our own way of doing things, are very independent, like to eat and different times, go to bed at different hours and have different lifestyles and budgets. Yikes.......it is getting to be a long trip already.
Labels: Livingston travel, sightseeing Rio Dulce, things to do in Livingston, where to stay Livingston Guatemala draft 11:56:00 AM by To
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