Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Rio Dulce to Livingston

We arrived to Rio Dulce about 6:30 pm after about 6.5 - hours on a private shuttle and a very hot Fuente Del Norte public pullman. We had reservations at Rio Vista, located right under the big bridge. We checked into a nice room, a/c was an additional cost. Our third British friend hates a/c and opted to get her own room. We relaxed a bit then went downstairs to dinner. We could smell pot at the bar and in the kitchen. I've heard drug use and trafficking in Rio Dulce is prevalent. After seeing all of the million dollar yachts there,now I know how many of them were purchased. Because of the drug trafficking, Rio Dulce is considered very safe. They don't want to bring any unwanted attention to the town. We had a decent dinner at the hotel. The bar was full of 60-year old hippie ex-pats while bacjground music was 70's rock, The Rolling Stones and the Doors. I loved it! The Michalda, my new favorite beverage (beer & tomato juice) was good and my friends liked the margarita and rum drink. They ordered b'bque ribs and said they were good but they wanted a larger portion.

The next morning we took the public boat at 9:30 am to Livingston. The ride was beautiful and I really enjoyed getting cooled down on the water. It took about 2.5 hours. We floated past the Spanish fort, Bird Island and stopped for a break at the hot springs. When you stick your feet in the boiling water and see fish below, you wonder how they can surivive. Put your feet in further and you realize the water is only boiling on top.

We arrived at Livingston before noon and weren't sure where to stay. Of course we were bomboarded by the locals on the best place to lodge, but we found our own Hotel Rio Tropicales from the tourism office located right off the pier. We quickly discovered the public boats don't leave on Tuesdays, so we arranged to get a collectivo boat for 250q verses the normal 200q the next day. See Capt Roni. You get your passport stamped the night before departure. I believe the office closes at 6:30 pm. ish.

It was terribly hot and humid so we had lunch and good margaritas at a local restaurent on the main drag. Later two of us took a local taxi to the beach. He had a flat on the way, but it was close enough to walk the rest of the way on our own. The beach was about 20-minutes drive and pretty nice. We layed out (in the shade) near a restaurant which had beach loungers. I ordered another Michalda after the three margaritas I had for lunch! The water was warm so not terribly refreshing, but fairly clean.

For dinner we had the traditional Tapado "seafood stew" of coconut milk, plantains, and coriander at Buga Mama's. The wait staff were all in school to learn hospitality and tourism. The soup was flavorful, but I didn't care to have a whole fish and a whole crab that I had to pick apart to get any meat. The soup was cold by the time I de-boned the fish. I can't do crab when it is whole. I'm a bit particular on how my seafood is prepared. We opted not to go out for music but could hear it from a couple of places. The night was miserably hot without a/c and no breeze. I spent part of the night in the courtyards hammock until some ladies came home very late and were loud and drunk. It came a deluge during the night. I love rain!

By now things were starting to heat up between us (3)ladies. I acted as the mediator between the other two. I'm drinking a lot of cocktails by now and trying to learn the art of comprise. Three middle aged women traveling together is difficult to say the least. We all have our own way of doing things, are very independent, like to eat and different times, go to bed at different hours and have different lifestyles and budgets. Yikes.......it is getting to be a long trip already.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

10-Day Journey starting from Antigua to Copan and beyond

I just spent 10-days touring with two girlfriends. I have to remind myself three grown ladies will never be able to travel together. Our likes, dislikes, budgets and lifestyles were all different. This was a difficult trip for me and I learned the art of comprise. Now I know why all of my travel has been solo!

Our itinerary was bus to Copan Honduras, bus to Rio Dulce, boat to Livingston, Guatemala, boat to Punta Gorda Belize, bus and water taxi to Placencia, bus to San Ignacio, taxi/shuttle/bus/tuk-tuk to Flores, and bus back to Antigua. It seems all we did was travel form point A, to B to C and so forth without seeing many sights. Two of us took the expensive bus ride from Antigua to Copan while the other took the cheaper shuttle. My friend threw-up on the expensive Heddman Alas bus. I felt like we were in a 6-hour Disney Ride through the mountains. The bus was comfortable, but everyone kept there curtains closed and no one can look out. You couldn't even see out the front as it is blocked too. As with many buses in Guatemala, it was not maintained properly and the drivers go way too fast. We swayed from side to side and hit bottom on any speed bump.

Graditas Maya Hotel picked us up at the bus terminal when we arrived and we got checked in. The a/c worked well in the room and it was nice and large enough to fit three beds. My only complaint was it sounded like a discoteque was located below. Music blarred until after 1 am in the morning. And at night they would lock the gate and the doors to get in, but failed to notify anyone they do this. We cme home by 9 pm one night and didn't think we could get in the compound until we banged on the door a lot.

We visited Copan Honduras for the Mayan Ruins. I didn't care for the town but loved the ruins. The experts consider them the Paris of the Mayas. I think having an enthusiastic and knowledable guide makes the difference. Look for Juan at the entrance and expect to pay $25 USD. We visited some minor ruins about a kilometer away. For me it was not worth the effort to see more ruins. But what I also enjoyed was the photographical history of the excavation of the ruins located in a municipal bulding in the central park.

We stayed for 2-long nights and the heat started bothering me quickly. Llama de Bosque had good local food. Cafe Via Via was about average. My favorite was for breafast at Yat B'alam, a Boutique Hotel. The service was superb and the food just as good. My British friend finally got her bacon! I believe they have won awards on Tripadvisor. La Casa de Toda Restaurant had poor/slow service for lunch and the Chicken Caesar Salad was about average.

We used Cafe Via Via's travel agency to book our shuttle to Rio Dulce. The shuttle system throughout Guatemala and Honduras is adequate. But don't sit in the back of the van or you will get no a/c. They charged us $39. So the full van shuttle was bareable, but they dropped us out in the midddle of nowhere at Rio Hondo and said a bus would be there in 30-minutes. We didn't even have time to get water and visit the toilet before our public Pullman bus arrived. Then the 2-hour nightmare began! Mind you, we payed an additional $14 for this. It was a Fuente Del Norte Pullman. There was no airconditioning on the bus. For ventilation and to keep us from dying in the heat, they opened one emergency window in the roof and drilled holes in 2-emergency windows to hold them partially open for more ventilation. It was probably 90-degrees during the middle of the day. For over 2-hours there was 25-people standing in the full bus so air movement was impossible. I thought it was my time to throw up on this leg of the journey! I recommend you buy a ticket at the bus stop or on the bus and not use an agency. What a rip-off!

My overall impression of Copan Honduras is that it is extremely over priced for what you get and considering it to be a third world country! I didn't get the warm fuzzies like I get in Antigua. No one says hello or "buenos dias". The town is very rustic and not charming at all.

Too busy to write

Well, it has been weeks since I have written in my blog. I have been one busy lady. From walking the street dogs, taking Spanish Classes, working out at the gym, practicing yoga, and my busy social life; I rarely have time for anything else. I was never this busy (other than work) or had this much fun back in the USA.

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Million Dollar Views

I've gotten in a pretty good routine here. I get up, take care of the puppies, come home to shower, have lunch, then I have Spanish classes in the afternoon. I usually walk to the local La Bodogena about 3-4 times a week. It's a hike of about 16-blocks round trip. But you can find jsut about everything you need there. On weekends, I do a lot of socializing with neighbors and friends.

I went to a yoga class and really enjoyed it. I will try to go every Friday. Just joined a gym yesterday, so today will be my first workout in months. I know I'll be sore.

I attended a WINGS Fundraiser, for women's reproductive health and birth control. Of course, that too does not go over very well in this Catholic Culture. They also don't understand my love for animals when there is so many people suffering. I blame much of the world's over population on the Catholics and poor education.

I'm loving my "Million Dollar" view from my rooftop terrace on the apartment where I live. I had a Dominoes Pizza Party the other night. It was fun! We watched the huge full moon but didn't seem much volcanic eruption of Volcano Fuego. This is my favorite activity here in Antigua, and it's very cheap entertainment. I've gotten connected to a good group of students here. I'll miss them when they leave in a couple of weeks. Luckily, my missionary friend Tom will be here for at least 3-more months.

A group of us took a chicken bus to a place called Earth Lodge. More of a backpacker kind of place. I highly recommend their "Heart Attack" sandwich, filled with delicious Mennonite bacon. It was a fiasco for the older ladies who could not make the hike down a 300m ravine. Lunch was good and I enjoyed the adventure and the views. My friend and neighbor Chris has 2-ladies in their 70's visiting her from Florida.

I have an opportunity to return to India to help a friend with a hiking lodge. I may do this in August. I'm still considering the possibilites. It will be rainy season here from May through October. I'm also considering opening a small "spa" business. I know............my mind never rests from entrepreneurial opportunities.

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Puppy Whisperer of Antigua Guatemala

I've gotten really involved in the dog walking and have spent a good deal of time with the ferrel puppies. They are calling me the "puppy whisper". It's an incredible feeling to see the progress, albeit small. I have also started visting the tame and ferrel cats.

Everytime I take a walk, I see 4 or 5 people I know. It's comforting. Something you never get in a much larger city.

I moved to an apartment. The apartment is a dive, but it has 1500 sqaure feet of rooftop terrace and a million dollar view. Plus I am safe her. Something I cannot say about the last place. I lost money moving so soon, but I felt my safety was in jeopardy. It's a long story , but the owner of the house and school (Universal and Casa de Olga y David) has a reputation throughout Antigua for robbing and lying to his students and guests. Just some really funky and weird things were going on. Plus now, I am able to have my own kitchen. I had some guests over the first day to watch a procession in the streets for lent. There will be numerous activities throughout the town prior to Easter Week, the busiest week in Antigua and world renown for their Easter festivities. More on this later. I'm at an internet cafe, hopefully I will have internet by this afternoon.

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

This and that around Antigua

I've gotten pretty settled into my new place, although I am still looking for something else. I did find a cute place yesterday, but it is more than I want to spend every month. Antigua is much more expensive than I anticipated. I have several choices to choose from on the new location, but we shall see what comes up in the next couple of weeks. I'm told lovely apartments ranges rom $400-$800 a month. Heck, that's US prices, and I have no income coming in right now. I can get a really nice room, with no kitcHen for about $300 a month. Even though I won't cook a huge meal, it's nice to have a small microwave and fridge in your room for quick snacks and preparations. I don;'t want to have to get dressed to go to a shared kitchen area. It's easy to spend hundreds of dollars a month in going out to eat.

I'm still trying to walk the rescue dogs a few days a week. I'll also start visiting with the rescue cats soon. I jsut found out where they are located, I thought they were only locatred in sonmeone's home. I am making some head way with two ferrel puppies. They are about 6-months old and beautiful, but extremely afraid of humans. They eat out of my hand. I have them coming up to me when I have a toy in my hand and htey really want to get closer, but they back off. We've got a long way to go before we can put them on a leash for walks and even longer before they are adoptable. One dog snapped at me today. She's been a litiel cranky with everyone since she was spade.

One of my highlights is viewing the active volcano, Fuego, in the evenings. The other night she erupted with fury. There were probably five streams of lava flow visible for 2-minutes or so. One small apartment I am looking at has a beautiful rooftop terrace. The million dollar view is the only plus. The apartment itself is a dive. Anyone who knows me well knows I would have it looking cute, but I am not sure I want to sink any of my money into it.

I've had dinner out a few times. Pangean again. I probably won't go back a third time. The Fettucini with Lemongrass, Porcini Mushrooms & Arugula was good, but not excellent. The portion was small and they used more of an egg noodle than a fettucini noodle. The service was extremely slow too. I also have eaten at Asados de Antigua Steak House with a friend from W Virginia. He really watches his budget and knows where all the cheap place to go are located. The price was 60Q ($7.75)inclusive of tip and a fresh orange juice. I had an excellent grilled chicken, potato and fresh veggie dish of high quality. I have also had breakfast at Chez Pierre, a new little bistro. I eat out 3-4 times a week, and the rest of the time I am attempting to cook small and easy meals consisting of either beans, eggs, tuna or cheese as my protein with veggies, bread, rice, tortillas or pasta.

I walk to the La Bodogena (large market) several times a week to stock up on stuff as well as the outdoor market. Everything in Antigua is within 12-blocks of one side of town to the other. I walk everywhere. The market is best for fresh produce, but they have everything imaginable. I'd just rather not go to a half a dozen different vendors to save a dollar or two.

Spanish is coming along really slowly. I am not studying nor practicing. I hope to join a gym very soon. The apartment I am looking at is right next door to a gym, so there will be no excuses to not start working out.

Think I'll take a siesta! A rare event for me these days.

Friday, March 4, 2011

Bow Wow at the Puppy Palace

I haven't written in my blog for a while. It has been a busy week of Spanish Classes, moving to a new place and socializing. Spanish is coming along slowly. I have a long way to go and a lifetime of learning.

Last weekend I spent time with Tom and Christine, both Americans. We toured the open air market. I bought a ton of fresh vegetables and bought several items to set-up my new kitchen and pantry.

The new place has a great courtyard and a nice room, but I'm not totally content. The kitchen is shared and very bright and open. But it is hard to get cooking space. There are 10-rooms here and many long term residents who like to cook. There are no students here, everyone knows Spanish well. They are young, loud and consume the kitchen. Need I say more. It is not a good fit. So I am looking for a new place at the beginning of April. This is the third location I have been in in 2-weeks. I hope to find a place I can settle into for 6-months. It doesn't need to be fancy, just clean, have a good feel, good light and an open space with a nice quiet courtyard. I haven't gotten use to the Widow Maker Showers. They are electric and produce small amounts of hot water. But I am trying to realize that 90% of the world's population does not have double headed showers with infinate supply of hot water!!!!! I'll adjust and make the best of it. I am very spoiled!

I went to a multi-cultural, non-denominational church last Sunday. The music was fantastic! A 7-piece pop band, with music both in Spanish and English, but mostly in Spanish. I believe the church is sponsored by Southern Baptists from Florida.

We had brunch at Casa Condessa. It was delicious and I highly recommend it as it much better than the usual breakfast they offer. We also had dinner at Pangea's, which offers a worldy infused menu. I had Steak Pasta with Gorgonzola. Yummy!!! I tried a bite of their avocado mashed potates and an avocado creme brulee. Both were out of this world. I know, sounds weird to have a cold Creme Brulee, but it was exquisite.

I cooked dinner a couple of times this week for friends and myself. I've been eating rice even for breakfast becuase I cooked so much. At least it is a flavorful Amarrillo (yellow) rice with fresh vegetables, ham and a litle cheese.

I've started walking rescued dogs from the street. The foundation is run by a Canadian and American women who have lived in Antigua for 20-years. The Aamerican is also a editor of "The Revue", a local tourist magazine. They are doing great things for a small group of lucky animals. Yesterday we let them run loose in a private finca. (farm) located very near to the city. That was fun for me too. They try to get them adopted out either locally or they go to shelters in the USA. I don't need to know Spanish to walk and talk to the dogs. Hehe I don't want to do this more than 3x times a week so I don't get too attached to the dogs. I do miss my kitties!

I just looked at a lovely home to share with a German lady and her son. It's beautiful, but I think it will be difficult for me to share a space with others. So I'll keep looking!

Antigua is more expensive than you'd think. Already my American friend who moved here six months ago says she is returning to the USA. She has depleted her savings already.