Saturday, April 30, 2011

Urgggh..........diarrhea & fever

Just when I thought Semana Santa was over, I hear canons exploding at 5:30 am on Monday morning. Gawd, will this ever end? Every time a canon goes off I think it is a bomb. Whew............it’s happened all week long, again.

I walked the dogs bright and early on Monday morning and really did not felt well at all. I managed to go the La Porta for a sit in the sauna and steam. By the time I got home, I had a full blown fever and diarrhea. I couldn’t stand for more than a few minutes at a time before I had to lie down again. This went on for 3-days. I started to get scared remembering how sick I got on RTW Trip in 2005. I let diarrhea get the best of me and ended up in the emergency room upon my return home. I was given a diagnosis of malaria, until proven otherwise. Thank goodness it was just a bacterial infection in the blood stream. The nurse said I could have died during the night from so much potassium loss. I had poisoned blood. So…………I’m thinking, did I get malaria in Flores, Livingston, Rio Dulce, or maybe Copan? I did get bitten by a few mosquitoes in each place. Anyway, thankfully I am better. The fever has gone but I still have diarrhea. My doctor friend got me antibiotics for amoebas. I may still have to go to the doctor at some point for blood work. I couldn’t even walk across the street for a doctor earlier this week.

I managed to walk the dogs 3x times this week. Went to the gym for a very mild work out, sauna and swim a couple of times. The swim made me feel the best. I’ve eaten Ramen noodles but not much else. Trying to rest more this week. Stomach still queasy and still some diarrhea even after antibiotics.

Oh the perils of world travel! It’s not always as glamorous as it seems. But I still remind myself, I am blessed to be here. I think I am just prone to stomach issues on my world travels.

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Week in review, Semana Santa, Holy Week in Antigua

Week at a glance.

As usual, I had a busy week. Not sure how productive, just busy. I only walked the dogs twice this week. I need to get back on track with that. I do enjoy the Puppy Palace.

I splurged and joined the spa and gym at Porta Hotel. It was a bit extravagant, but much needed for me. I get one massage a month included in my membership, plus unlimited use of the gym, the relaxation area, locker room, infared sauna, steam room and the swimming pool. I go at least 4x a week. I took 2-friends over and they immediately booked massages on the spot while I worked out. Yoga keeps me busy too. If they offered more gentle flow, or restorative yoga I would go more frequently. It really helps the old joints from staying so stiff.

A small group of us went to a boutique coffee finca (farm) for a half day trip. We took the chicken bus out of town and visited Finca Los Nietos. The tour was informative and the coffee delicious! I now have enough coffee to last me for months here.

I was bad and visited Central America's version of KFC, called Pollo Comparero for a delicious fried chciken breast. Yummy! I also had chicken nachos at Rainbow Cafe. One of Antigua's favorite ex-pat hang-outs.

I audited an English Certification Class. I may take a one month long course to get certified to teach English abroad, called TESL. This was one of my main reasons to come to Guatemala, but I have lost interest.

This is the week of Semana Santa, Holy Week. My apartment is located across from San Francisco Church a major procession route for the week and for the 40-days of Lent. The carpets, alfombras, carpets made of died sawdust, flowers, fruits and vegetables are a sight to see. They are works of art sometimes taking hours to complete as a gift for the effigies of Jesus and Mary; some are hundreds of years old and are very sacred. I wonder how many hundreds of pounds of Frankincense are used during this holy period. You can smell the incense, hear the band, and then you know a procession is near. The bands sound like a mafia funeral. I won’t miss the processions coming by my door after midnight. Last night at 2:30 on the morning it sounded like a tuba was in my bedroom. My entire apartment was shaking room the music. If I hadn’t heard the music I would have thought we were in an earthquake! The floats weigh nearly 2500 pounds and takes approximately 50-people to carry them. Some processions last for 12-hours! I’m told the heavier the float for the cucuruchos, the more sins he has committed throughout the year. Then men carry floats of Jesus. The women carry the Virgin Mary. It is an honor and a small fee to carry these floats. The carnival atmosphere offers everything but the rides! I’m not joking…….vendors sell everything from balls, toys, cotton candy, noise makers, grilled corn, popcorn, pizza, etc, etc, etc. The police presence here as been overwhelming this week. There has been more and more people getting robbed in Antigua. Just wish they would stay past this busy holiday and touristy week.

I don’t do well with the crowds, so I have enjoyed my rooftop terrace for a different experience of viewing the processions. I’ve had several parties throughout the last month. Yesterday we made an appetizer of bacon bits and spicy Hellman’s Mayonnaise on toast with a tomato slice and olive on top. We also made home-made pimento cheese for all.

I’ve enjoyed the month here with all the festivities, but I am anxious for Antigua to get back to somewhat normal for me. I’m upset that my camera was stolen. But hopefully I should get photos of all the festivities from my friends.

Sunday, April 17, 2011

Here's a clip from a recent thread on The Lonely Planet (Gap Year & Around the World Teavel) Forum I responded to:

Seeking thoughts, advice and wisdom for long term travel
Hello everyone,

I'm 39 year old and still haven't shaken the travel bug. I've backpacked across Europe and South East Asia at separate points in my life but I still feel I'm not done exploring. I'm considering packing it all in and taking off until the money runs dry (possibly 18 months if I'm lucky). My concerns are the following and would appreciate any advice you can offer:

1. Family- I don't have any kids and only a collection of ex-girlfreinds but I am exremely close to my immediate family. My parents are getting up there in age and if something were to happen to them I don't if I could forgive myself for not being there.

2. Returning to work after a long break. I am a little concerned of the perception employers may have of a 40 year old man with an extended gap from the last job. I am curious as to what type of reception you received from prospective employers especially from older travelers like myself getting back in to the workforce. I have a MBA and tons of experience in my field but it still leaves me a bit uneasy due to the uncertainty.
************************************************************************************
AND MY RESPONSE:

I think once you’ve gotten the travel bug, it is a permanent inflicted ailment for which there is no recovery.

Companies should acknowledge world travel as an invaluable life experience. I would add it to your resume. You learn skills at becoming a self reliant, confident and an independent thinking individual.

My first trip abroad was when I was 16. I spent a summer in Singapore. Backpacked across Europe alone at 18, and have since taken 2 solo trips around the world with numerous one month jaunts in between. I made a mistake and got married and was miserable with the whole normal life. I had bouts of being satisfied with my travel and being home, but the bug has always come back.



At 52, I’m back at it. I’ve sold everything I own, and of course I too worry about what will happen when the funds run out. Luckily, I have a skill set where I can easily find work. In the past, I worked in retirement communities and I saw couples scrimp and save their entire lives so they could travel when they retired. Invariably one would die, or the other would be inflicted with a disease so they never got to travel. Sure they had the funds to live in this beautiful retirement community but they never got to see the world.

My father died at 50 of a massive heart attack. These two things made a big impression on me and how I live my life today. I may be a bag lady in my 70’s, but boy will I have the memories and some wild stories to share! Do it now, life is truly too short! One you have a good career, you’ll buy a house, get in debt, have children, and then in becomes increasing difficult to fulfill those travel desires.

My only regret is I have never had someone to share my travel lifestyle with!

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Back in Antigua

I’ve been home several days now and getting all settled in again. I was pretty rattled the first few days back, and every time a motorcycle would drive by, I would jump. Those feelings have since past, but I still feel insecure here. I use to love walking around at night. I have to think I was in the wrong place at the wrong time.

It’s been nice this week to not have Spanish Classes. I think I will wait until have Samana Santa, Holy Week, before starting again. First time since I have been here, but I actually had one day where I had nothing going on. I slept late, wrote in my blog, and spent a lot of time at the puppy shelter. As usual I have a pretty social and busy life. I went to yoga twice this week and started working out again. My cute little legs are going to be sore.

I also had to see a dermatologist due to my skin irritation form the trip. I had a slight case of dermatitis and he also discovered a couple of pre-cancer spots that needed to be cut out. I’m glad I got it taken care of. I didn’t expect this to happen, but in the long run, I am sure it is cheaper to have it done here rather than back in the USA. Being in the sun has always been such a big part of my life. I am a true beach bum at heart. Now I need to visit and stay in more moderate climates and stay out of the mid-day sun. I’m still blessed with good skin, but I will have to be more careful now.

Ocelot had their 1-Year Anniversary Party this week and were giving away free drinks. I went with a lady friend of mine, Barb, who I met through yoga. We had a good time and it was nice to see such a mixture of people from 21-80! My........there are a lot of “old fart” ex-pats here in Antigua! I spent a good deal of the day with Barb, and we had dinner at Hector’s. This turned out to be a huge and expensive disappointment for me. I ordered grilled shrimp. It was the whole damn shrimp, head and all and in an awful Creole sauce. No rice or salad, and they charged $20 USD! Today I splurged and had a burger at Epicure with Chris my neighbor and Scott, a Spanish student.

My friend returned form the states today and brought me back new clothes. Some fit and some did not. I had ordered on-line and had them shipped to his address. He had 3-suitcases full of stuff he brought back to make life here a tad more comfortable.

Thursday, April 14, 2011

San Ignacio to Flores (robbery on return home)

Another long ass day! We all met for breakfast and said our goodbyes to the Dutch friend. He was to remain in Belize while we headed back to Guatemala.

We were at the bus area at 9 am waiting for either a bus or a taxi when someone offered us a ride to the border, Benque del Carmen. 10-minutes later we are crossing another border and paying the Guatemalan Immigration Officials another 10Q. We paid another person 10Q to take us just a few miles away to wait for a collectivo mini shuttle to take us to Flores. It was a hot and exhausting 2+ hour trip to Flores. In retrospect, I would never do this again. Just too risky accepting rides from strangers and I felt our safety with the vehicle and the shuttle itself were jeopordized. I did way too many risky things on this trip to save a buck. It was not my doing, but part of the compromise traveling with others who were on a much tighter budget than me.

We arrived at the Flores Bus Terminal and I went ahead and purchased my Fuente Del Norte Premier Class ticket for the next day to Guatemala City. We all fit into a tuk-tuk to town to look for lodging. We ended up at Don Goya II. Once again we got 2-rooms so we could have air conditioning. By this time, my skin is suffering from the heat, sun and humidity. I am having a terrible reaction and have a red itchy rash on my arms legs and face. The hotel was pretty basic but we had a nice view of the lake. I loved their rooftop terrace. We walked around town a bit during the heat of the day and most things were closed on a Sunday. We had happy hour at a nice place with lakeside views. I drank more alcohol on this trip than I usually ever do. A freak windstorm blew over umbrellas and tables and broke some glass at the restaurant. It was over as quickly as it blew in. Dinner was lovely and at La Villa del Chef. I recommend their Falafel Dish. By now I am tired of company every day as this is my first attempt to travel with others. It became increasingly difficult as the days progressed. My Antigua friend was flying back to Guatemala City early the next day and the British friend was hanging around Flores for several days longer on her own so she could visit Tikal.

By 10 am I had taken a tuk-tuk to the bus station for my premier ride. I was finally alone. I hate to sound so negative, but they do not maintain anything in Guatemala. The bus windows had not been cleaned and you could not even see out them because they were so filthy. The restroom did not have any toilet paper and was a disaster. The air conditioner barely worked and the driver constantly opened his window to get more ventilation. I sat right behind the driver and for 9-hours I had a clear view of numerous near miss head-on crashes. I witnessed him counting money while driving several times. He made personal stops for bananas, pineapples, fruit juice, lunch to go, dropped off the lunch to his family, he picked up laundry, and picked up friends. It was a 9-hour nightmare! I could not get the seatbelt to work. I kept thinking if we can just make it home safely I will be one lucky woman. Well………we almost made it. We rear ended a small car in Guatemala City. Luckily, it was just a fender bender. But because I saw it coming, my entire body tensed up in preparation for the crash. I was sore upon impact. I was the only tourist the entire day and my Spanish is still limited. Everyone got off the bus and I asked someone if she spoke English. She said she another bus was coming for us and she would have a safe yellow taxi pick me up at the station. I gave her my name and she gave the dispatcher my description. Within 15-minutes we are in another bus and a yellow cab was waiting for me and motioned me over. I get home at 8:15 at night and am exhausted, rattled and starving. I tell my neighbor I am home, she says she made it back safely from her flight. She hadn’t eaten either and says, “Let’s go get a quick bite”. I said give me 5-minutes. I removed most of my stuff from my purse including passport, credit cards and most of my money. We walk out by 8:30 pm. Within 30-feet of stepping out our front door and me talking about my exhausting day, my friend tells me to back-up. I look up and 2-men are on a motorcycle about 10-feet in front of us and coming closely to us. We knew what was about to happen. One young guy gets off the motorcycle, pulls out a gun, points it at us and says something in Spanish. I immediately throw my purse at him. My friend does not. She looks him directly in the eye and keeps saying “Get away from me” as she backed away from him. I yell, “Just give him your purse, Chris”. He cocks his gun and points it closer to her face. She does not give him the purse. He gives up as cars and people are starting to get closer to us by now. We run over to a nearby tienda and say we have been robbed and what is the number to the police. The two boys in the tienda say “I don’t know the number and you rich Americans can afford to get robbed”. I’m shaken, we run back o our house, but fearing they will come back and we don’t want them to know where we live. Our landlord calls the police. The police pick us up shortly and take us to the station to file a report. Not a good ending to an already challenging trip! The police station was about what I expected. It took an hour and a half. My landlord had come with us and acted as out interpreter. The police said we should not be out after 9 pm as there had been many robberies in the area. Everyone I know has had their credit card comprised though the ATM’s. I had not expected this much crime here. My little place in paradise is ending!

San Ignacio Belize

The four of us were off early to another town in Belize. Hokey Pokey Water Taxi at 6:45 am, then an Express Shuttle to Belmopan, and a quick change to a school bus to San Ignacio. Total travel time was about 5 ½ hours, arriving in San Ignacio about noon. We were once again approached by hawkers on where to stay. We darted into a new Italian Restaurant, Amore Mio owned by a Brit named Nigel. He was very kind and gave us lots of advice on where to stay and suggested a tour company to use for a day trip. He even let us store our luggage in the restaurant until we could find a hotel room. If Nigel can get a handle on his menu and great food, it will become a gold mine for San Ignacio. The info and camaraderie was great, but the frozen pizza was not up to par.
We looked at several hotels and decided on Park Plaza, getting 2-rooms. One with a/c the other without. It was a strange set-up and we paid $75 Belize Dollars for the a/c room. Pricey for what we got. It was a real hotel, but you walked through the owner’s living room to get to the hotel rooms. They monitored our comings and goings throughout our stay which was really starting to annoy me when they said we had to come home together in the evenings. The lady owner asked me 5x times if I turned off the a/c for which she charged $10 a night extra to use. I know….electricity is expensive, but I really only needed to be reminded just once.
We managed to book two different day tours for the next day. Me and the Brit opted for the full day of Cave Tubing at Jaguar Paw through Mayawalk Tours. (right across from the bus terminal) They were very professional and I wholeheartedly recommend them. The river was low and at times our guide had to tow us. Our inner tubes were huge and we had to paddle at times. I did the back stroke to get some speed going. Otherwise my arms weren’t long enough to reach the water. I had a blast, and felt like a little kid again. Feeling loved and nurtured on the river. TIP: Make sure to ask what day the Cruise Lines take the day trips here from Belize City. When they do, there can be up to a 1000 people on the river at one time! They arrive 3x a week. The river/cave trip cost $55 USD, taking 1.5 hours drive to get there each way. We stayed cool on the river and in the caves, and a picnic lunch after we finished. Our friends had an equally good time using the same tour company. They took a canoe trip and a guided tour of the Botanic Gardens
Happy hours consisted of Panty Rippers (rum & pineapple juice) at a bar across from the bus terminal. Dinner was divine at the busiest place in town.
Ko-ox Han-nah
#5 Burns Ave.
824-3014
M-Sat 6a-9p
Ko-ox Han-nah is centrally located and offers a large diverse menu, catering also to vegetarians. They serve traditional Belizean food, spicy Asian dishes, as well as American/English food.

San Ignacio Belize

Oops.........not sure if this ever got posted.

The four of us were off early to another town in Belize. Hokey Pokey Water Taxi at 6:45 am, then an Express Shuttle to Belmopan, and a quick change to a school bus to San Ignacio. Total travel time was about 5 ½ hours, arriving in San Ignacio about noon. We were once again approached by hawkers on where to stay. We darted into a new Italian Restaurant, Amore Mio owned by a Brit named Nigel. He was very kind and gave us lots of advice on where to stay and suggested a tour company to use for a day trip. He even let us store our luggage in the restaurant until we could find a hotel room. If Nigel can get a handle on his menu and great food, it will become a gold mine for San Ignacio. The info and camaraderie was great, but the frozen pizza was not up to par.
We looked at several hotels and decided on Park Plaza, getting 2-rooms. One with a/c the other without. It was a strange set-up and we paid $75 Belize Dollars for the a/c room. Pricey for what we got. It was a real hotel, but you walked through the owner’s living room to get to the hotel rooms. They monitored our comings and goings throughout our stay which was really starting to annoy me when they said we had to come home together in the evenings. The lady owner asked me 5x times if I turned off the a/c for which she charged $10 a night extra to use. I know….electricity is expensive, but I really only needed to be reminded just once.
We managed to book two different day tours for the next day. Me and the Brit opted for the full day of Cave Tubing at Jaguar Paw through Mayawalk Tours. (right across from the bus terminal) They were very professional and I wholeheartedly recommend them. The river was low and at times our guide had to tow us. Our inner tubes were huge and we had to paddle at times. I did the back stroke to get some speed going. Otherwise my arms weren’t long enough to reach the water. I had a blast, and felt like a little kid again. Feeling loved and nurtured on the river. TIP: Make sure to ask what day the Cruise Lines take the day trips here from Belize City. When they do, there can be up to a 1000 people on the river at one time! They arrive 3x a week. The river/cave trip cost $55 USD, taking 1.5 hours drive to get there each way. We stayed cool on the river and in the caves, and a picnic lunch after we finished. Our friends had an equally good time using the same tour company. They took a canoe trip and a guided tour of the Botanic Gardens
Happy hours consisted of Panty Rippers (rum & pineapple juice) at a bar across from the bus terminal. Dinner was divine at the busiest place in town.
Ko-ox Han-nah
#5 Burns Ave.
824-3014
M-Sat 6a-9p
Ko-ox Han-nah is centrally located and offers a large diverse menu, catering also to vegetarians. They serve traditional Belizean food, spicy Asian dishes, as well as American/English food.

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Livingston Guatamala to Placencia Belize

It rained throughout the night in Livingston and into the morning for our boat departure. Thankfully it stopped and we departed on time. It was a rough ride. They use boats that hold approximately 16-24 people depending on own many persons they can crowd in the boat.

We arrived at Punta Gorda Belize about 45-minutes later. Our male friend from Holland was waiting for us at immigrations. We exchanged money and made our way to the local bus station for a 2-hour school bus ride to the Mango Creek area. Then we walked a ½ kilometer to the Hokey Pokey Water taxi for a 15-minute jaunt to Placenica.

We got settled in at the Barefoot Bar for drinks and lunch and to discuss where to stay for the night. Now with 4 of us, it was even harder to agree on anything. We decided on the Yellow House Private Beach Home. It averaged about $100 USD per night and was right on the beach. We had dinner at a bad restaurant on the beach. Wish I could remember the name of it. We liked Barefoot and went back there another time for Happy Hour. We had a good dinner at The Secret, near a day spa and massage place the next night. I found this area a bit too touristy and pricey for me. Dinners averaged over $15 with 10% tax and a 10% tip.

The wind had kicked our first night there which I enjoyed sleeping in the hammock outside. But it was awful for the water the next day. It was full of seaweed and you couldn’t even swim. A total disappointment for me. My friends were ready to move on after 2-nights, I could have stayed another day as it appeared the water had cleared up the second day.

Off again early the next AM, for yet again, another Hokey Pokey Water Taxi and school bus ride to San Ignacio!

Rio Dulce to Livingston

We arrived to Rio Dulce about 6:30 pm after about 6.5 - hours on a private shuttle and a very hot Fuente Del Norte public pullman. We had reservations at Rio Vista, located right under the big bridge. We checked into a nice room, a/c was an additional cost. Our third British friend hates a/c and opted to get her own room. We relaxed a bit then went downstairs to dinner. We could smell pot at the bar and in the kitchen. I've heard drug use and trafficking in Rio Dulce is prevalent. After seeing all of the million dollar yachts there,now I know how many of them were purchased. Because of the drug trafficking, Rio Dulce is considered very safe. They don't want to bring any unwanted attention to the town. We had a decent dinner at the hotel. The bar was full of 60-year old hippie ex-pats while bacjground music was 70's rock, The Rolling Stones and the Doors. I loved it! The Michalda, my new favorite beverage (beer & tomato juice) was good and my friends liked the margarita and rum drink. They ordered b'bque ribs and said they were good but they wanted a larger portion.

The next morning we took the public boat at 9:30 am to Livingston. The ride was beautiful and I really enjoyed getting cooled down on the water. It took about 2.5 hours. We floated past the Spanish fort, Bird Island and stopped for a break at the hot springs. When you stick your feet in the boiling water and see fish below, you wonder how they can surivive. Put your feet in further and you realize the water is only boiling on top.

We arrived at Livingston before noon and weren't sure where to stay. Of course we were bomboarded by the locals on the best place to lodge, but we found our own Hotel Rio Tropicales from the tourism office located right off the pier. We quickly discovered the public boats don't leave on Tuesdays, so we arranged to get a collectivo boat for 250q verses the normal 200q the next day. See Capt Roni. You get your passport stamped the night before departure. I believe the office closes at 6:30 pm. ish.

It was terribly hot and humid so we had lunch and good margaritas at a local restaurent on the main drag. Later two of us took a local taxi to the beach. He had a flat on the way, but it was close enough to walk the rest of the way on our own. The beach was about 20-minutes drive and pretty nice. We layed out (in the shade) near a restaurant which had beach loungers. I ordered another Michalda after the three margaritas I had for lunch! The water was warm so not terribly refreshing, but fairly clean.

For dinner we had the traditional Tapado "seafood stew" of coconut milk, plantains, and coriander at Buga Mama's. The wait staff were all in school to learn hospitality and tourism. The soup was flavorful, but I didn't care to have a whole fish and a whole crab that I had to pick apart to get any meat. The soup was cold by the time I de-boned the fish. I can't do crab when it is whole. I'm a bit particular on how my seafood is prepared. We opted not to go out for music but could hear it from a couple of places. The night was miserably hot without a/c and no breeze. I spent part of the night in the courtyards hammock until some ladies came home very late and were loud and drunk. It came a deluge during the night. I love rain!

By now things were starting to heat up between us (3)ladies. I acted as the mediator between the other two. I'm drinking a lot of cocktails by now and trying to learn the art of comprise. Three middle aged women traveling together is difficult to say the least. We all have our own way of doing things, are very independent, like to eat and different times, go to bed at different hours and have different lifestyles and budgets. Yikes.......it is getting to be a long trip already.
Labels: Livingston travel, sightseeing Rio Dulce, things to do in Livingston, where to stay Livingston Guatemala draft 11:56:00 AM by To

Rio Dulce to Livingston

We arrived to Rio Dulce about 6:30 pm after about 6.5 - hours on a private shuttle and a very hot Fuente Del Norte public pullman. We had reservations at Rio Vista, located right under the big bridge. We checked into a nice room, a/c was an additional cost. Our third British friend hates a/c and opted to get her own room. We relaxed a bit then went downstairs to dinner. We could smell pot at the bar and in the kitchen. I've heard drug use and trafficking in Rio Dulce is prevalent. After seeing all of the million dollar yachts there,now I know how many of them were purchased. Because of the drug trafficking, Rio Dulce is considered very safe. They don't want to bring any unwanted attention to the town. We had a decent dinner at the hotel. The bar was full of 60-year old hippie ex-pats while bacjground music was 70's rock, The Rolling Stones and the Doors. I loved it! The Michalda, my new favorite beverage (beer & tomato juice) was good and my friends liked the margarita and rum drink. They ordered b'bque ribs and said they were good but they wanted a larger portion.

The next morning we took the public boat at 9:30 am to Livingston. The ride was beautiful and I really enjoyed getting cooled down on the water. It took about 2.5 hours. We floated past the Spanish fort, Bird Island and stopped for a break at the hot springs. When you stick your feet in the boiling water and see fish below, you wonder how they can surivive. Put your feet in further and you realize the water is only boiling on top.

We arrived at Livingston before noon and weren't sure where to stay. Of course we were bomboarded by the locals on the best place to lodge, but we found our own Hotel Rio Tropicales from the tourism office located right off the pier. We quickly discovered the public boats don't leave on Tuesdays, so we arranged to get a collectivo boat for 250q verses the normal 200q the next day. See Capt Roni. You get your passport stamped the night before departure. I believe the office closes at 6:30 pm. ish.

It was terribly hot and humid so we had lunch and good margaritas at a local restaurent on the main drag. Later two of us took a local taxi to the beach. He had a flat on the way, but it was close enough to walk the rest of the way on our own. The beach was about 20-minutes drive and pretty nice. We layed out (in the shade) near a restaurant which had beach loungers. I ordered another Michalda after the three margaritas I had for lunch! The water was warm so not terribly refreshing, but fairly clean.

For dinner we had the traditional Tapado "seafood stew" of coconut milk, plantains, and coriander at Buga Mama's. The wait staff were all in school to learn hospitality and tourism. The soup was flavorful, but I didn't care to have a whole fish and a whole crab that I had to pick apart to get any meat. The soup was cold by the time I de-boned the fish. I can't do crab when it is whole. I'm a bit particular on how my seafood is prepared. We opted not to go out for music but could hear it from a couple of places. The night was miserably hot without a/c and no breeze. I spent part of the night in the courtyards hammock until some ladies came home very late and were loud and drunk. It came a deluge during the night. I love rain!

By now things were starting to heat up between us (3)ladies. I acted as the mediator between the other two. I'm drinking a lot of cocktails by now and trying to learn the art of comprise. Three middle aged women traveling together is difficult to say the least. We all have our own way of doing things, are very independent, like to eat and different times, go to bed at different hours and have different lifestyles and budgets. Yikes.......it is getting to be a long trip already.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

10-Day Journey starting from Antigua to Copan and beyond

I just spent 10-days touring with two girlfriends. I have to remind myself three grown ladies will never be able to travel together. Our likes, dislikes, budgets and lifestyles were all different. This was a difficult trip for me and I learned the art of comprise. Now I know why all of my travel has been solo!

Our itinerary was bus to Copan Honduras, bus to Rio Dulce, boat to Livingston, Guatemala, boat to Punta Gorda Belize, bus and water taxi to Placencia, bus to San Ignacio, taxi/shuttle/bus/tuk-tuk to Flores, and bus back to Antigua. It seems all we did was travel form point A, to B to C and so forth without seeing many sights. Two of us took the expensive bus ride from Antigua to Copan while the other took the cheaper shuttle. My friend threw-up on the expensive Heddman Alas bus. I felt like we were in a 6-hour Disney Ride through the mountains. The bus was comfortable, but everyone kept there curtains closed and no one can look out. You couldn't even see out the front as it is blocked too. As with many buses in Guatemala, it was not maintained properly and the drivers go way too fast. We swayed from side to side and hit bottom on any speed bump.

Graditas Maya Hotel picked us up at the bus terminal when we arrived and we got checked in. The a/c worked well in the room and it was nice and large enough to fit three beds. My only complaint was it sounded like a discoteque was located below. Music blarred until after 1 am in the morning. And at night they would lock the gate and the doors to get in, but failed to notify anyone they do this. We cme home by 9 pm one night and didn't think we could get in the compound until we banged on the door a lot.

We visited Copan Honduras for the Mayan Ruins. I didn't care for the town but loved the ruins. The experts consider them the Paris of the Mayas. I think having an enthusiastic and knowledable guide makes the difference. Look for Juan at the entrance and expect to pay $25 USD. We visited some minor ruins about a kilometer away. For me it was not worth the effort to see more ruins. But what I also enjoyed was the photographical history of the excavation of the ruins located in a municipal bulding in the central park.

We stayed for 2-long nights and the heat started bothering me quickly. Llama de Bosque had good local food. Cafe Via Via was about average. My favorite was for breafast at Yat B'alam, a Boutique Hotel. The service was superb and the food just as good. My British friend finally got her bacon! I believe they have won awards on Tripadvisor. La Casa de Toda Restaurant had poor/slow service for lunch and the Chicken Caesar Salad was about average.

We used Cafe Via Via's travel agency to book our shuttle to Rio Dulce. The shuttle system throughout Guatemala and Honduras is adequate. But don't sit in the back of the van or you will get no a/c. They charged us $39. So the full van shuttle was bareable, but they dropped us out in the midddle of nowhere at Rio Hondo and said a bus would be there in 30-minutes. We didn't even have time to get water and visit the toilet before our public Pullman bus arrived. Then the 2-hour nightmare began! Mind you, we payed an additional $14 for this. It was a Fuente Del Norte Pullman. There was no airconditioning on the bus. For ventilation and to keep us from dying in the heat, they opened one emergency window in the roof and drilled holes in 2-emergency windows to hold them partially open for more ventilation. It was probably 90-degrees during the middle of the day. For over 2-hours there was 25-people standing in the full bus so air movement was impossible. I thought it was my time to throw up on this leg of the journey! I recommend you buy a ticket at the bus stop or on the bus and not use an agency. What a rip-off!

My overall impression of Copan Honduras is that it is extremely over priced for what you get and considering it to be a third world country! I didn't get the warm fuzzies like I get in Antigua. No one says hello or "buenos dias". The town is very rustic and not charming at all.

Too busy to write

Well, it has been weeks since I have written in my blog. I have been one busy lady. From walking the street dogs, taking Spanish Classes, working out at the gym, practicing yoga, and my busy social life; I rarely have time for anything else. I was never this busy (other than work) or had this much fun back in the USA.